Folder



J. GALKIN Dec. 6, 1955 FOLDER 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Nov. 6, 1953 JOSEPH GALKIN INVENTOR Y E N m T T A J. GALKIN Dec. 6, 1955 FOLDER 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Nov. 6, 1955 oumQmxu JOSEPH GALKIN INVENTOR BYW ATTORNEY FDLDER oseph Galkin, New'Yorh 'N- Applicntion November 6, 1953, Serial No. 390,458 4 Claims. (Cl..- 112147) This invention relates :toa folder for sewing machines and more Particularly to a new folder. which is ada ted for ePPlying' a new type of waistband to the waistband portion of trousers, the new type waistband having an xt nsion of the body fabric onthe inner face of the waistband to prevent exposure of the waistband lining which xpo ure is a detriment to the old type waistbands which have the lining material extending upward substantially to the top or folded edge of the waistband.

An object of this invention is to provide .a new folder which is adapted for applying the new type of two-facecxposure waistband to the waistband portion of trousers, the dy fabri of the trousers having .an extension folded o e the inner face of the Waistband to prevent exposure f the wais band lining- Another o je t of his invention is to provide a folder for a tr users waist and made of a buckrarn layer and a lining layer for producing two faceaexposure of the trousers fabr omp i ing a f lder body ha i an inlet passageway t i s l wer surface and a right-angular outlet extension of the passageway at its upper surface, and ad justnble hemming section for varying the width of the lower pas age ay and the width of the linin a graduated scale an an ndex fi e mounted on the f lder body for in ca ing the adju ted width of he lower hernrning section and of he lowe pa s geway. he uppe passage y tension being defined by an adjustable hemming section for varying the width of the upper passageway extension, a graduated scale an an index finger mounted on the fold r bo y f r indic ting the adiu ted width of the upper pas ageway, the s ale ha in grad stions permi ting adju ments on th ale indica ing th width of the lining an t ex en of the e po re of h dy material on h nne surface of the waistband- Another obje t of this invention is to provide an im- Proved waist and f lder comprising a folder ody having an inlet to a waistband passageway at its lower surface and a. right-a gular o tl t ex ens on of the pa s g way at i s pper su face. th fol er inle comprising a guide f r h stitched g of he preformed wai tband material a a guideway for the uckrarn material, th suideway aving an long ed t ngue on hich the bucltram is s pport the f lder having n mpr ved hemming s L on in the ower pass ge ay hich is justable .for foldng the li ng o cause the width f the lining to e l ss than the wid h of the buckr m, the pper passag way 6X- ns oh eing define y an impr ved hemming section whi h is adj st e r r ce ing th prefolded lining in the upper passageway extension, the folder outlet comprising a -guide for the stitched edge of the waistband material 'and a guide for the buckram material, the upper hemming section being positioned intermediate the upper guides to cause a portion of the buckram to lie exposed and without coverage from the lining material, an independent guide below the upper hemming section having an edge portion extending upwardly to the upper hem ir ng s ct on. whereby cg-trousers fabric maybe sewed ds se belo he folded edge of the l n ng and in cov- United States Patent ering relation'with the exposed face portion of the buck ram, and thereby permit folding the trousers fabric over the opposite face of the buckram to produce a trousers waistband having two-face-exposure of the trousers fabric. a

With the above and other objects in view, theinvention will be hereinafter more particularly described, and the combination and arrangement of parts will be shown in the accompanying drawings and pointed out in the claims which form part of this specification.

Reference will now be had to the drawings, wherein like numerals of reference designate corresponding parts throughout the several views, in'which:

Figure l is a plan view of the improved on the base-plate of a sewing machine.

Figure 2 is a front elevation'of the improved folder shown in Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a side elevation of the ures l and 2.

Figure 4 is an enlarged sectional view of a waistband as completed on the machine, showing a portion of the buckram partly covered by the lining and partly covered folder mounted folder shown in ta by the body material of the trousers.

Figure 5 is an enlarged sectional view of the waistband shown in Figure 4 and showing the body material folded over the buck-ram so as to produce the new type of twoface-exposure waistband.

Figure 6 is a cross-sectional View taken on line 66 in Figure l and showing a fragmentary portion of a channel-shaped guideway in which is slidably mounted an arm carrying a U-shaped guide for guiding the stitched edge of the pre-formed waistband material.

In the illustrated embodiment of the invention, the numeral 14) indicates the improved folder consisting of a supporting base 11 having slots 12 adapted to receive screws 13 for securing the folder to the base-plate 14 of a sewing machine. The slots in the supporting-base 11 permit the folder to be shifted in a direction crosswise of the line of seam formation to different set positions.

Integral with the supporting-base 11 is an outwardly flaring angularly bent folding section 15 having a rightangular extension 16 positioned below the base-plate 14 of the sewing machine.

The extension 16 comprises a fixed guiding slot 17 serving to receive one edge of a band of stiffening fabric 18 from a supply reel (not shown) but positioned above the operating table or base-plate 14 of the sewing machine. The supply reel carries a roll of ready made or pre-formed waistband material made of a layer of lining and a stiffening layer of canvas stitched together lengthwise along one edge.

A channel-shaped guideway 19 positioned parallel with the line of stitching is formed on the extension 16 and serves to receive the rectangular portion of a slide arm 20 in close engagement. The slide arm has a slot 21 to receive a screw 22 for securing the arm 20 to the extension 16 in different set positions.

A U-shaped guide 23 is provided for guiding the stitched edge of the pro-formed waistband material. The guide 23 is fixed to a bar 24 fastened to the slide arm 20 by screws 25. The guide 23 may thus be shifted in a direction parallel with the guiding slot 17 to form between them a guideway of adjustable width for the particular width of waistband desired. The width of the waistband to be formed is governed by the Width of the stiffening, fabric 18 shown in Figure l.

A hemming section 26 is slidably mounted at the under surface of the extension 16 below the guiding slot or guideway 17 in I hemming section 26 is, substantially U-shaped and has a tongue 27 centrally therein.

Mounted on the supporting base guideway 28 positioned transverse 11 is a channel-shaped with the line of stitchparallel relation with the guideway. The I ing and serves to receive the rectangular portion of an arm 29 in slidable engagement. The slide arm 29 has a slot 30 to receive a screw 31 for securing the arm 29 to the base 11 in different set positions. A U-shaped guide 32 is provided for guiding the stitched edge of the preformed waistband material. The guide 32 is secured to the slide arm 29. The guide 32 may thus be shifted in direction parallel with the line of stitching of the sewing machine.

A hemming section 33 is formed from one end portion of a plate 34 mounted above the supporting base 11 and is secured to the base 11 by means of an arm 35 and screws 36 passing through a slot 38 in the arm 35. The folding edge 39 of the hemming section 33 is positioned in angular relation with the U-shaped guiding member 32, forming a tapering passageway between these members with the largest end of the taper terminating at the needle 40. The hemming section 33 is substantially U-shaped and has a guiding tongue 41 centrally secured therein. The tongue 41 projects outwardly from the hemming section 33 and slopes downwardly and terminates adjacent the needle at a point 42.

An independent guide 43 for the edge of the trouser fabric is positioned on the base plate 14 of the sewing machine and has an edge portion 44 which extends slightly upward. 7

As shown in Figure l, the edge guide 43 has slots 45 serving to receive screws 46 for securing the edge guide and the edge portion 44 thereof in various adjusted positions with relation to the folding edge 39 of the hemming section 33. The edge guide 43 may thus be adjusted on the base-plate 14 and this adjustment permits variation of the width of trousers fabric to be inserted between the stiffening fabric and the lining material of the waistband.

A guide channel 48 for the buckram 18 is formed by an upturned edge 49 of the supporting base 11. It is to be noted that the tongue 41 has been moved to the right and away from the guide channel 48 to permit a portion of the buckram 18 to lie exposed and without coverage from the lining material, as shown in Figures 4 and 5. The tongue 41 is positioned between the guide 32 and the guide channel 48.

The above arrangement of the guide 32 and the hemming section 33 and the guide channel 48 is entirely different from the structure shown in my prior patent wherein the tongue 41 lies substantially in superposed relation with the guide channel 48 for the buckram.

An elongated tongue 50 integral with the lower wall of the fixed lower guideway 17 extends forwardly of the said guideway and terminates in a bowl-shaped free end portion 51. The lower surface of the bowl-shaped portion 51 facilitates the feeding movements of the lining material to the hemming section. The upper surface of the tongue 50 serves as a support for the buckram.

As shown in Figure 3, it will be seen that the tongue 50 is positioned higher than the hemmer 26 and functions as a separator to permit the lining material to roll freely around the tongue 27 of the hemmer.

The numeral 53 indicates a rectangular recess in the lower surface of the supporting base 11 to permit moving the upright edge portion 44 of the guide 43 to the new position of the upper hemming section 33, that is further toward the U-shaped guide 32. At its lower surface, the wall defining the recess 53 rests on the work supporting base of the sewing machine.

The lower hemming section 26 is integral with a substantially rectangular plate 55 which is supported by a U-shaped bracket 56 having its lower arm 57 fixed to the lower surface of the plate 55 and its upper arm 58 slidably mounted in a channel-shaped guideway 59 which is parallel to the channel-shaped guideway 19. The bracket 56 is adjusted by a screw 54.

It is to be noted that the upper hemming section 33 has been moved to the right, away from the upper guide channel 48 for the buckram material to such an extent as to fully expose the guide channel 48 and to permit the edge portion 44 of the edge guide 43 to be moved to the right below the upper hemming section to thereby bring the trousers fabric in covering relation with the exposed portion of the buckram material.

Mounted on the lower portion of the supporting base 11 is a scale 60 having graduations 61. An indicating finger 62 is held by a screw 63 which is threaded in the arm 58. The indicating finger 62 points to the graduations and when the plate 55 and lower hemming section 26 is adjusted, the finger 62 indicates the adjusted width of the lining as determined by the hemming section 26.

The improved folder 10 comprises two graduated scales, one scale identified by the numeral 60 at the inlet side of the folder, and a scale having graduations 71 and positioned at the outlet side of the folder.

The scale 70 coacts with an index finger 72 held by a screw 73 which is threaded in the arm 35. The indicating finger 72 points to the graduations 71 and when the arm 35 and the upper hemming section 33 is adjusted, the finger 72 indicates the adjusted width of the lining as determined by the hemming section 33. Both scales indicate the reduced width of the lining material and the extent of exposure of the body fabric on the inner surface of the twoface-exposure waistband.

An edge of the lining fabric comes out from the rear end of the angularly positioned hemming section 33 folded to the desired width of two-face-exposure required. The U-shaped guide 32 serves for guiding the stitched edge or pre-finished edge of the pre-formed waistband material. In operation, the roll of pre-formed waistband material 75 above the operating table or base-plate 14 is inserted in the lower hemming section 26 and in the guiding section 17 with the buckram or stiffening fabric 18 facing up and resting on the tongue 50. The free edge of the stiffening fabric is in contact with the guideway 17. The stitched edge of lining material 77 and stiffening fabric 18 is inserted into and contacts with the U-shaped guide 23.

The waistband material is drawn through the lower hemming section 26 and guiding sections 17 and 23 and is folded in an oblique direction about the angularly bent i section 15 and is inserted in the upper hemming section 33 and in the guiding section 32 on the supporting-base 11 with the lining fabric facing up and with the free edge of the stiffening fabric in contact with the guide channel 48.

The stiffening fabric goes through unfolded. The free edge of the stiffening fabric leaves the guide channel 48 slightly to the right of the needle 40. The stitched edge of lining material 77 and the stiffening fabric 18 is inserted into and contacts with the U-shaped guide 32.

The free edge of the lining material comes out from the rear end of the angularly positioned hemming section 33 folded to provide the desired width of the exposed portion of the stiffening fabric and is stitched adjacent the folded edge of the lining section and is drawn through the folder by a feed mechanism (not shown).

Figure 4 shows an enlarged cross-sectional view of a pre-formed waistband material 75 made of a buckram layer 18 and a lining layer 77 which have been pre-connected by a line of stitching 74 prior to the insertion thereof into the folder 10. When the pre-formed waistband material 75 is passed through the folder 10, the other end of the buckram 18 and the lining 77 and the body material 78 of the trousers is connected by a line of stitching 95. Figure 4 shows a portion of the buckram 18 partly covered by the lining 77 and partly covered by the body material 78.

Figure 5 is an enlarged cross-sectional view of the waistband shown in Figure 4 and showing the body material 78 folded over the buckram 18 so as to produce the new type of two-face-exposure waistband 76.

The object of the angular position of the upper hemming section 33 is to cause the underfolded edge portion of the lining material to enter the hemming section 33 with a I thread. The screw 80 is threadably mounted in an width less than the desired ividth and to leave the folder at the needle with thedesired width. This causesthe lining: fabric to be under tension and; to lay taut on the stiffening fabric, a

There is a narrow linear passage between the tongue 4t and the. inclined folding edge 39 of the hemming section 33 which assists in maintaining the; folded position of the lining abric and also ca ses the lining fabric. o be t at the point of exit from the'folder. This prevents the formation of puckers" in thelining fabric of the sewed waistband.

The stitching meQhanismof the. sewing'machine may be of any haracter but is preferably of the type forming zigzag stitching which pass alternately through the folded edge of the lining and through the trousers and stiffening fabric and then only through the trousers fabric 78 and stifiening fabrics 18, as shown in Figures 4 and 5.

The mechanism for adjusting the lower hemming section 26 comprises a screw 80 having a micrometer-type upright boss 81 at the front end portion of the supporting base 11. I

The screw 80 has a peripherally grooved head 82 which is rotatably mounted in engagement with the walls defining an opening 83 in a plate 84. The plate 84 is secured to the front end portion of the U-shaped bracket 56.

By rotating the screw 80, motion is imparted to the bracket 56 and to the indicating finger 62 in relation to the scale 60. This motion makes it possible to adjust the lower hemming section 26 to micrometer precision.

The mechanism for adjusting the upper hemming section 33 comprises a screw 90 having a micrometer-type thread. The screw 90 is threadably mounted in an upright extension 91 on the arm 35.

The screw 90 has a peripherally grooved head 92 which is rotatably mounted in engagement with the walls defining an opening 93 in an upright plate 94. The plate 94 is secured to the rear portion of the supporting base 11.

By rotating the screw 90, motion is imparted to the arm 35 and to the indicating finger 72 in relation to the scale 70. This motion makes it possible to adjust the upper hemming section 33 to micrometer precision.

The lower screw 80 adjusts the lower hemming section 26. The upper screw 90 adjusts the upper hemming section 33 in relation to the needle 40.

When a zig-zag stitch 95 is used, the adjustment must allow for one-half of the width of the zig-zag stitch, as an addition. This addition forms a differential between the two scales 60 and 70. The graduations 71 are spacedapart to allow for this differential in the readings.

In accordance with the patent statutes I have described and illustrated the preferred embodiment of my invention, but it will be understood that various changes and modifications can be made therein without departing from the spirit of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. In a folder for a trousers waistband comprising a lining layer and a buckram layer for producing two-faceexposure of the trousers fabric; comprising a folder body having an inlet to a waistband passageway at its lower surface and a right-angular outlet extension of said passageway at its upper surface, said folder inlet comprising a guide for the stitched edge of the preformed waistband material and a guideway for the buckram material, said guideway having an elongated tongue on which said buckram is supported, said tongue having a bowl-shaped free end portion, an adjustable hemming section in said lower passageway for folding the lining to cause the width of said lining to be less than the width of said buckram, said upper passageway extension being defined by an adjustable hemming section for receiving the pro-folded lining in said upper passageway extension, said folder said upper hemming section. being positioned intermediate said guides to cause. a portion of the. buckram. to. lie ex? posed; and without coverage from the lining material, an independent guide for the, trousers fabric below said upper hemming section and havingzan edge portion extending upwardly to said hemming section, said folderthaving a base, a rectangular recess in the lower surface ofxsaid folder base, said rectangular recess permitting'rnovement of said upright edge portion in relation tosaid upper hemming section, edgewise below the folded edge of said lining in covering relation with said exposed face portion of said' buck: ram, and thereby permit folding of said trousers fabric over the opposite 'face of said buckram. to produce a trousers waistband having two-face-exposure of the trousers fabric.

2. In a folder for a trousers waistband comprising a lining layer and a buckram layer for producing two-faceexposure of the trousers fabric; comprising a folder body having an inlet passageway at its lower surface and a right-angular outlet extension of said passageway at its upper surface, said passageway having an elongated tongue on which said buckram is supported, said tongue having a bowl-shaped free end portion, an adjustable hemming section in said lower passageway for folding the lining to a width of considerably less width than said buckram, said upper passageway extension being defined by an adjustable hemming section for receiving the pre-folded lining in said upper passageway extension, said folder outlet comprising a guide for guiding the stitched edge of the preformed waistband material and a guide for the buckram material, said upper hemming section being positioned intermediate said guides to permit a portion of the buckram to lie exposed and without coverage from the lining material, said folder having a base, a rectangular recess in the lower surface of said folder base, said rectangular recess permitting movement of waistband material and a guide for the buckram material,

said upright edge portion in relation to said upper hemming section, whereby a trousers fabric may be sewed edgewise below the folded edge of said lining and intermediate said lining and said buckram while covering said exposed portion of said buckram, and thereby permit folding of said trousers fabric over the opposite face of said buckram to produce a trousers waistband having two-face-exposure of the trousers fabric.

3. In a folder for a trousers waistband comprising a lining layer and a buckram layer for producing two-faceexposure of the trousers fabric; comprising a folder body having an inlet passageway at its lower surface and an angular outlet extension of said passageway at its upper surface, said passageway having an elongated tongue on which said buckram is supported, said tongue having a bowl-shaped free end portion, an adjustable hemming section in said lower passageway for folding the free edge of the lining to a width of considerably less width than said buckram, said upper passageway extension being defined by an adjustable hemming section for re ceiving the prefolded lining in said upper passageway extension, said folder outlet comprising a guide for guiding the stitched edge of the preformed waistband material and a guide for the buckram material, said upper hemming section being positioned intermediate said guides to permit a portion of the buckram to lie exposed and without coverage from the lining material, said folder having a base, a rectangular recess in the lower surface of said folder base, said rectangular recess permitting movement of said upright edge portion in relation to said upper hemming section, whereby a trousers fabric may be sewed edgewise between said lining and said buckram while covering said exposed portion of said buckram, said stitched trousers fabric being thereby foldable over the oposite face of said buckram to produce a trousers waistband having two-face-exposure of the trousers fabric.

4. In a folder for a trousers waistband comprising a lining layer and a buckram layer for producing two-facewhereby a trousers fabric may besewed' V 7 exposure of the trousers fabric; comprising a folderbody having an inlet passageway at its lower surface and a right-angular outlet extension of said passageway at its upper surface, said passageway having an elongated tongue on which said buckrarn is supported, said tongue having a bowl-shaped free end portion, an adjustable hemming section for varying the width of said lower passageway and the width of said lining, a graduated scale and an index finger mounted on said folder body for indicating the adjusted width of said lower hemrning section and of said lower passageway, said upper passageway extension being defined by an adjustable hemming section for varying the width of said upper passageway extension, a graduated scale and an index finger mounted on said folder body for indicating the adjusted widthof said upper passageway, said scales having graduations permitting adjustments on both scales indicating the width of said lining and the extent of exposure of said body material on the inner surface of said waistband.

References Cited in the file of this patent .UNITED STATES PATENTS 853,l45 Zachaira May 7, 1907 1,875,578 Feigel et a1. Sept. 6, 1932 1,932,575 Cooper et a1. Oct. 31, 1933 2,028,773 -Galkin Ian. 28, '1936 

